Sow tomato seed

They just need a little gentle heat in a frost-free greenhouse.

Tomato sowing - step 1.JPG

There is nothing finer than being able to pick your own fresh tomatoes in the summer. The taste is wonderful, simply because you can allow the fruits time to fully ripen on the plants and therefore develop their own, individual flavour.

Growing tomatoes from seed is not difficult as long as you can provide a little gentle heat while the seeds are germinating and also to nurture the small seedlings on afterwards. A propagator in a frost-free greenhouse is ideal, or a small windowsill propagator can be used as an alternative.

The secret is not to sow too early in the season. If you want plants to grow in a cold greenhouse now is a good time to sow to produce plants for planting out or potting into large pots or grow-bags in late April. To raise plants to be grown outside, wait a few more weeks as you don’t want the plants to be ready until late May or after the risk of frost has passed. If you start too early, you often end up with weak, leggy plants.

After the seed has germinated which can take between one and two weeks, depending on the temperature, the seedlings will need light, warm (but not too warm) conditions to grown on for several weeks.

Plant a peony

Conditions are perfect right now, and plenty are available to buy.


For a plant so bold and with flowers so big, beautiful and dramatic, it’s always amazing to know that peonies are really easy to grow, and with good siting and a little ongoing care, they will perform wonderfully each year for you.

While autumn is a good time to settle in bare root peonies, so they develop good root systems, it’s also perfectly fine to get planting both now, in early spring as the soil warms up again. Perfect for those who didn’t manage to plant one then, or didn’t have the space till now. Potted peonies can be planted at any time as long as the soil is pliable – the soil is pliable and warm now, providing the perfect conditions. And right now there’s a whole host of varieties available in garden centres and online to plant up, too.

In a sunny or partly shady, moist but well-drained spot, dig in a helping of compost or well-rotted manure before you plant. For bare root, plant with the ‘eyes’ (new buds) just below the surface – about 3cm down. Potted peonies can be planted as other container plants – level with the top of the compost to the soil surface. And that’s it – just water them in well. Stake plants if needed and cut back the foliage to the ground in autumn.

Sow perennials

It's a cheaper way to provide lots of plants for your borders.

Sowing perennials - step 1.JPG

Perennials are great for adding colour and interest to the garden where they can either be planted on in an herbaceous border, or they can be used as part of a mixed border with shrubs and annuals. Many perennials are propagated from either cuttings or by division, but you can also grow them from seed with great results. This is ideal where you want large numbers of plants and it will work out much cheaper than having to buy in lots of plants from a nursery or garden centre.

Traditionally perennial seed was sown in late summer to produce small plants for planting out the following spring into their flowering position, but by sowing in early spring, many types of perennials will produce a flush of flowers in their first season. The flowers in the second year will be stronger, but by getting them to flower in their first year, you can weed-out out any colours you don’t want, or weak plants, keeping the best to grow on permanently. To get the seeds to germinate this early in spring, the seeds need to be sown undercover in a greenhouse or conservatory and they will need gentle heat. The easiest and most cost-effective way to do this is with an electric propagator that provides gentle bottom warmth as they grow.

Grow fruit and veg on the patio

You can save space but reap the rewards of plentiful harvests


Not many of us these days have a lot of room for a thriving veg patch as well as beautiful flower borders. But if you’re really keen on growing a wide range of veg without taking up too much ground space, you can always get growing on the patio.

It’s amazing the amount of produce you can harvest from containers, and in many cases it’s better for the plants to be grown this way – good quality, crumbly soil with a long root run and all the right watering and feeding is far better sometimes than the hazards of the open ground.

There are lots of specific kits out there at the moment with growbags, compost mixes and all the vegetable material you need to make it easy for you to make yourself a mini potted allotment, but you can also do it yourself with old potato growbags and large pots. As long as you emulate the conditions the plants need in the open ground, and are mindful that containers need more watering and feeding than ground-grown plants, then it’s an easy, fun job for a summer of tasty food!

Turn the compost heap

This vital job will help you assess its progress and keep it healthy.

A Compost Heap.jpg

How’s your heap going? Perhaps you started one up last year, and slowly you’ve begun gathering kitchen and garden waste to transform into compost goodness to give to your plot over the coming years. Well it’s a year-round job to keep on top of it, to make sure it’s got the right amount of different materials inside, is kept healthy, moist and airy at all times and turned over regularly.

Turning your heap is one of the essential jobs, which helps all the good bacteria that decompose your waste speed up the process and rot it all down effectively. It’s also a good way of assessing the moisture content and the smell, and gets vital air into the heap. If your heap’s cold and frosty it may be that it’s not composting quickly enough due to its low temperature – consider a closed heap in a sheltered spot, which will warm it up a bit and help the composting process.

Ensure your ratio of waste is kept correct – aim for up to about half of the heap as wet grassy waste, kitchen waste, annual weeds and perennial trimmings, for example, with the rest as woody waste prunings. This will set out the right balance for you first off, so that turning the heap will simply be a case of maintaining the equilibrium.

Plant the ultimate spring pot!

There are plenty of plants to choose from right now.


It’s always great fun at this time of year to see what’s on offer in the garden centres, and pick out some super spring blooms to show off. There are plenty of potted bulbs, but have a look round to see what else you can bring together beautifully, for an unusual but spring-like creation. Alpine and rockery plants are usually making their first appearance in garden centres for the year, so consider some of these in your plantings.

For a temporary display, use multipurpose compost, and feel free to add a few evergreen plants such as ferns or shrubs such as small hebes, leucothoe or skimmia – once you dismantle the contents of the pot these can be planted out in the garden. Often the effect with these temporary plantings is glorified flower arranging, until you transfer some of the plants elsewhere.

If your pot is larger and intended to be more permanent use a soil-based compost such as John Innes no.2. A wonderful way of making your pot more naturalistic looking, as if it’s just stepped out of an established garden scene, is to top it with moss – florist’s moss, lawn moss or packeted sphagnum moss that you can buy. This also serves as a nice weed suppressant and moisture retainer if need be.

Pot strawberries in containers

Get growing now and you can start picking in June!

Strawberries -step 4.JPG

There’s nothing nicer than a strawberry picked fresh from the garden in early summer. Their flavour is wonderful, especially when the fruits have been allowed to fully ripen on the plants in the warm sun. Strawberries are very easy to grow and can be grown in several ways. Traditionally, they’re grown in the garden, but they also grow very well in any type of container such as a hanging basket, pots or troughs. One of the main advantages of growing in containers is you can grow them undercover in a greenhouse or conservatory to get an early crop and being in pots makes them easier to protect from birds and slugs, both of which love the ripe fruits! They will also grow very well outside on a patio or in a sunny spot.

For fruits this summer there is still time to plant in containers and you’ll find bare-root runners for sale from mail order companies or potted plants in garden centres. Once you have the plants all you need is some containers to grow them in and a bag of good quality multipurpose compost as the strawberry plants are going to be in the pots for two or maybe three years. If you pot now, by June you’ll be picking your first strawberries of the season!

Prune Group 3 clematis

Some simple care now will see your climber bloom again in summer.

Clematis - step 2.JPG

Clematis are one of the most popular climbers that we grow in our gardens and the range of different types is huge. With just a little planning it’s possible to have clematis in flower for much of year, from mid-winter through until late autumn. Flowers come in all shapes, colours and sizes and the foliage also varies, with some varieties being evergreen.

Clematis are divided into three groups, depending on when they flower in the year. As a guide, Group One flower from mid-winter to mid-spring, Group Two from late-spring to mid-summer and Group Three, from late summer into autumn. The group the clematis are in also determines when the plants should be pruned, so even if you don’t know the name of your clematis or have lost the label, by noting when it flowers, you can easily tell what group it’s in and when to prune.

For group three clematis such as ‘Jackmanii’, C. texensis, C. viticella, C. tangutica and the other late flowering hybrids, we prune in late winter, before new growth starts. This is because they flower on the current season’s growth, meaning all the new shoots made this spring and summer will produce flower buds. Pruning of group three clematis is very easy and is simply a case of cutting the plants back hard. 

Chit your potatoes

Prepare them now for a healthy head start before planting out

Chitting potatoes - step 1.JPG

Seed potatoes for planting this growing season are now available in garden centres or from mail order companies. Depending on where you live in the UK, planting early varieties of potatoes is usually done between mid-March to mid-April, or when the soil naturally starts to warm up. However, once you’ve got your seed potatoes you can start to prepare them ready for planting. This is known as chitting and is when the dormant buds or eyes at the top of the tuber are gradually started into growth to develop into short, green shoots.

Although seed potatoes can be planted and will grow perfectly well without being chitted, those that are started into growth will get off to a head start once they are in the ground.  Normally it’s only first and second early varieties that are chitted as they’re the ones that are planted early in the growing season. To start them into growth stand the tubers, eyes upwards, in trays or old egg boxes and place them in a light, frost-free place. An ideal temperature is between 5C-10C. If too cold they remain dormant and if too warm, the growth will be thin and spindly! The process takes around six-weeks for the shoots to develop properly, so early to mid-February is a good time to get them started. 

Make it a year for marigolds!

These glorious plants will bring colourful beauty to your garden.


Did you know 2018 is the Year of the Marigold? It’s part of an international campaign that takes place every year to help boost different plant and seed sales – this year it’s the turn of the lovely, humble marigold. And yet, some of the glorious varieties available to grow these days look anything but humble! See below for some real stunners to add a fabulous addition to your garden.

Both types we’re familiar with – African and French marigolds – can be sown now indoors, with a bit of gentle heat to get them going. Sow the dainty, flaky seed batons finely on good, lightly moist seed compost, and then cover up with a thin layer of more compost. Kept at around 15-20C, germination should take between a week and two weeks, and once large enough to handle you can prick them out, transplant them and grow them on in separate pots. Plant them out in your best patio pots in a sunny spot at the end of May, for all to see their colourful beauty. You can even sow them directly outside from around April.

Many seed companies and garden centres also offer ready-grown plug plants, so for those with other, more pressing garden jobs to be getting on with, it’s is a nice, simple and easy way to bring beautiful summer container bedding to your garden.

Sow chillies

Bring on the heat by starting off these seeds now


On a cold January or February day, when you’re dreaming of hotter climes and warm weather, it’s the perfect time to get in the mood and sow some chillies indoors. Slower to grow and develop than tomatoes, they need a longer time to get established – hence you can start now.

Chilli plants need some good heat and light to grow and fruit well. Start off by sowing your seed thinly in modules or trays of good quality seed compost, which hasn’t been sat outside in the cold and wet – ensure it’s warmed through by being indoors for a day or two, and moisten it before sowing. Cover the sown seed in a thin layer of more compost.

To keep a consistent temperature, keep your tray at between 18C and 24C in a heated propagator, though an evenly warm spot by a light window is okay if you can maintain this temperature range. At night the temperature can be reduced a couple of degrees. Keep your tray in as light a spot as possible once you can see germination taking place, and be sure to prick them out once two seed leaves have emerged.

Water regularly and pot up as they grow, being sure to feed your grown plants with a tomato feed once established.

Specialist chilli seed supplier Sea Spring Seeds ( offers around 70 varieties of chilli seed, and also sends out good quality plug plants from April to grow on if you haven’t the means to raise them from seed.

Build a bed for acid-loving plants

Increase the variety of planting in your garden with a special plot just for them

shutterstock_555819016- Acid-Loving Plants.jpg

Raised beds are a fantastic garden tool, offering segmented gardening at waist height, which is easier on the back and less work in general. Tall raised beds also make a design statement as a focal feature. They offer a long root run for those plants that need it such as carrots, provide a warmer soil temperature if needed, as well as add good drainage to an otherwise wet garden. But perhaps its most versatile and useful merit is the fact that you can dedicate a special raised bed to those plants that prefer a certain type of soil, which otherwise you might not have been able to grow.

It means you can grow a wider range of plants; there are so many beautiful acidic soil-loving plants that deserve a place to thrive in your garden, so why not build them their own little plot? If you only have room for a smaller bed, invest in a ready-made kit, which will be cheaper. Larger, bespoke ones may need to be hand made.

Decide on your material – consider paving slabs, brick, stone and classic timber, which is cheap and versatile. Old pallets broken up and nailed together will work splendidly. Decide on its aspect, siting, how high you want the bed, and whether you put it on top of soil or independent of your borders.

Once constructed and placed, ensure you’ve created a longish root run for your plants, and considered any lime that may be present in bricks or stones. If you’ve used these materials, line the bed with plastic sheeting. The soil consistency and content is important. Half of your compost content should be ericaceous compost, while the other half of the content should be divided between a bark compost and topsoil. Plus, as with any acidic areas of your garden, composted pine needles or leaf mould makes for the perfect mulch.

Put up a bird box

Help your feathered friends and they'll help you in return

Bird boxes - main pic.jpg

A healthy bird population in the garden is not only enjoyable to watch, they will help to control pests such as aphids and caterpillars and reduce the number of weed seeds.

As well as feeding the birds, providing nesting sites is a good way to attract them into the garden. Man-made bird boxes provide a safe and cosy place to nest or roost out of the harsh weather.

Ideally bird boxes need putting up in the winter to give the birds time find them and get used to them and there is still time to put some up now, ready for spring.

Bird boxes come in all shapes and sizes, but the birds don’t worry too much about their shape or colour. What is important is that you use boxes that are suitable for the type of birds you are trying to attract and there are many different types available to buy. Positioning of the box is also very important. Ideally it needs to be in a sheltered position out of direct sunlight, to prevent eggs and chicks from over-heating on sunny days. A north or east facing aspect is ideal. A perch on the box isn’t advised as this makes it easier for predators to get in and there should always be a clear flight path in and out of the box.  

Blackcurrant cuttings

Get more healthy bushes for free with this simple technique

Blackcurrant cuttings - step 1.JPG

Blackcurrants are a very easy fruit bush to grow. They’ll grow in most soil types providing it’s fertile and moisture retentive. When established in the garden they’ll produce a good crop of currants from mid-summer that are delicious and high in vitamin C. The fruits are ideal for making jams and preserves, for using in pies and making fruit drinks, or mixing into fruit salad.

The productive life of a blackcurrant is at least 10 years, but if pruned regularly, fed and mulched, there’s no reason why it won’t carry on growing healthily and fruiting for up to 20 years or more.

Modern varieties such as ‘Ben Sarek’ and ‘Ben Connan’ are very good and produce large crops on compact bushes, making them ideal for smaller gardens.

Blackcurrants are very easy to propagate from hardwood cuttings taken in the dormant season. The stems on currants have what is known as ‘pre-formed root initials’ and when inserted into moist soil or compost, they quickly develop roots.

Take cuttings from last season’s strong stems now and only propagate from healthy, vigorous plants that fruit well. You can root the cuttings directly into the garden or in pots of compost and come spring they’ll burst into growth to make a new bush.

Plant up a potted bulb display

Celebrate the season with a bright and cheerful creation


Now’s the time of year when gardeners get a little excited about the imminent influx of spring blooms and new growth, as well as the promise of much lovelier weather to get out in! So to celebrate the season and create something pretty, why not get some colourful planting underway and jazz up your windowsills and outdoor tables with a selection of potted bulbs?

Instead of individual clusters of plants, plant a few pots of bulbs together in different sizes of shallow bowls, with taller ones at the back or in the middle, surrounded by smaller irises and snowdrops, for example.

You could even daintily edge your pots in low-growing winter aconites. Tuck in a few and then backfill tightly with multi-purpose compost, finishing off with your mossy topper to add a natural woodland feel to your display.

Nothing says ‘bring on spring’ more than lots of early-flowering bulbs to admire! Once they’ve all finished flowering, leave their leaves for a few weeks, then trim them right down. You can plant them out in the garden once they’ve gone.

Propagate vines

It’s easy to take cuttings from them at this time of year

Vine cuttings - step 1.JPG

There are many types of vines that we can grow in our garden, including ornamental ones such as Vitis coignetiae and V. vinifera ‘Purpurea’ that are grown for their colourful foliage through summer and autumn, although they also produce small, unpalatable grapes. Edible vines that are grown for their white or black grapes that ripen in late summer can be grown outdoors or undercover, depending on the variety you choose.

Commercial vines are grafted onto rootstocks, but at home it’s easy to propagate them from cuttings taken in late winter. There are two methods that work well. One is to take hardwood cuttings around 20-25cm (8-10in) long, depending on the vigour of the vine. The other is to take vine-eye cuttings that consist of a short section of a stem and a single bud. This is a good way to take lots of cuttings as each bud along a stem is a potential plant. The underside of the vine-eye is wounded with a knife to expose the cambium layer and encourage roots to form.

For both methods you need healthy one-year old stems from last year and for best results they should be rooted undercover, especially the vine-eye cuttings. A cold greenhouse is fine, but preferably one with frost protection.

Sow annuals for summer colour

Start them indoors now ready to plant out in spring


It’s worth planning your flower garden now with a range of hardy and half-hardy annuals, so you can take advantage of the full range of seed available to you and get a head start on growing. With a bit of indoor heat when sowing, you’ll have lots of young plants growing away well for you, ready and waiting come spring to be planted out. This method ensures earlier blooms than if sown direct later on, too. Just sow the amount of flowers you can fit in – you’ll need a lot of room to keep lots of sown flowers happy, which may prove unmanageable! Fast-growing annuals will get lanky and leggy too quickly, while longer-to-germinate annuals will fare better and take their time before being well-grown at just the right time for planting. Check seed packets for their germination details and heat requirements – an average of 15C (59F) is needed for good germination.

Plant up a winter herb pot

These easy-care aromatics look and smell great!

HERB POT - GNNH160044.jpg

At this time of year it’s a case of start as you mean to go on and get going with a few jobs that can be done before spring. Potted herbs that hold strong in winter make a fantastic display now with a useful bit of foliage interest, as well as being a handy culinary container from which to pick sprigs for your warming seasonal dishes.

Grow everything in a large pot or a long, rectangular planter for best effect, and give each plant a deep root run and a wide enough space to grow unencumbered. Ensure lots of drainage holes puncture the bottom, as most of these warmer climate herbs don’t like wet feet! The same goes for the compost as regards drainage – treat your herbs to a nice permanent, soil-based compost such as John Innes No 2 or 3, which has been added to with a few handfuls of grit.

Winter cultivation is mainly keeping herbs away from too much wet in a rain shadow, and raising the pot onto ‘feet’ to improve drainage. Keep plants in a warm, sunny spot through the year.

Prune wisteria

With some regular trimming it will get better with age!

Wisteria step 3.JPG

A wisteria in full bloom in May is a wonderful sight and the hanging racemes of flowers make a lovely display on a wall, fence or pergola. Wisteria is a vigorous plant and really needs to be trained and pruned regularly to keep it under control. If not, in just a few years it will grow into a plant that’s large and unruly! However, with a little regular pruning and training you can easily keep wisteria in check and manageable to create a specimen plant that will flower and get better with age.

August is when much of the pruning is done to shorten the long, whippy growths and to tie in new shoots to create and maintain the shape. In winter, when the plant is dormant, a second prune can be done to keep the growth tight and compact. Pruning now is simply a case of checking over the plant and shortening even further the stems that were pruned back last summer. The aim is to create short spurs just 5cm (2in) long, on which flower buds will develop in spring. Now is also a good time to remove any dead wood, check for suckers and make sure the stems are secured to their support.

Prune currant bushes

Trim them now to keep them healthy and encourage new growth

Prune Currant Bushes.jpg

Blackcurrants and redcurrants can both be pruned in winter, but they need a slightly different pruning method to keep them healthy and fruiting.

Blackcurrants grow as a stooled bush, with all the growth coming from ground level or below and they fruit on the previous season’s growth. The aim when pruning is to cut out as much of the old wood as possible and leave the new growth to fruit this summer. However, this isn’t always possible, because as you cut out the old wood, you also take some of the new shoots with it. To minimise this, always try and prune out branches low down to encourage strong replacement growth from the base of the plant.

Red and white currants are pruned differently because you want to maintain a framework of older branches from which new growth is made. Once a framework is established the new stems can be shortened back to between 7.5-10cm (3-4in) to create fruiting spurs, which will flower and fruit this summer. During the winter you can also thin out some of the older wood if the plant is getting too large and woody. This encourages new replacement growth and keeps the bush healthy.